Practical stuff

For those planning to do the walk, here are some thoughts:

- It might be worth cycling instead of walking. I know, walking has more of a pilgrim-feel to it, but the Baltic area is very flat and the trail runs along big roads for rather long stretches. It can be a bit frustrating to trudge along a road and watch the cars swoosh past. On that note...

- ... the trail was only opened about a year ago, and it could do with some improvements. In particular, there were days when I felt that whoever designed the route just worked with a big road atlas and a marker pen (though other part of the route were scenic and lovely). It might be worth doing some intensive research into wilder, more remote hiking paths off the official trail.

- On the other hand, the trail is probably mainly for pilgrims who really want to see all the oldest churches, so if that's your priority, better stick to the official trail.

- Home-stays are generally nicer and more interesting than hotels, though the hotel in Kamien Pomorski was very cosy.

- The trail guide included some donation-based accommodation, but I didn't test this as it seemed a bit complicated (eg you had to call someone who would take you to a school where you could then sleep in the gym). Bear in mind that you may be the only person on the trail - we only met one other group of hikers - so home-stays are also a nice way of socialising. I wish the trail guide had included more of these; they can be hard to find as they tend not to have websites.

- Polish cherries are excellent

- So is Polish smoked fish, Polish mushroom pierogi and Polish beer.