Day 4: Kamien Pomorski - Karnice

Day 4 on the Baltic trail. I haven't met any other hikers on this path. Not one. Apparently the route was opened only about a year ago. Maybe there just hasn't been that much footfall? The last people who used the trail were probably the medieval pilgrims who gave it its name - Pomeranian Way of St. James, the Baltic part of the famous Santiago trail. It's incredible to think that people used to walk from here to Spain. And in medieval shoes!

Town hall in Kamien Pomorski (Cammin)

Colour blocking!

Today I wanted to cut myself some slack given yesterday's ordeal. My genius idea - yes, another one - was to use a 14km short-cut through a forest. It was so scary. Just me in the dark dark woooods. Ready to be strangled with the straps of my own backpack. I frantically waved at every passing cyclist so they could later identify me on Polish Crime Watch. Thankfully the second part of that short-cut was out in the open, through those beloved wildflower meadows.

Then I got lost and was rescued by a lovely Polish lady with a mobile phone. She directed me to my homestay. It's all been a bit chaotic but I can proudly say I've walked around 60km in three days. 

Whenever my feet start feeling sore, I think of the woman my granny met on the refugee train from Swinemüne/Swinoujscie. She boarded the train with her little boy, who had frostbite on both feet. They had walked to Swinemünde from Kolberg. Kolberg happens to be on my route: it's two more days from here. How did they manage to walk that far in the snow? Where did they sleep? Who knows. My granny gave the boy some aspirin she happened to have with her, for the frostbite. 

Cute houses and gardens in Kamien Pomorski, my favourite town here so far

I'm getting closer to the towns where my family used to live, and where some of my ancestors are buried. Apparently some of the German cemeteries have been restored in recent years, so I might even spot a familiar name or two on a tombstone. My other mini project is to find the sand dune that was named after my great-grandpa and allegedly kept his name even when the town became Polish. I know the rough location, but haven't figured out how to tell if it's the right dune. Unless they come with name tags?